Fabrication Techniques & Hardware
A milling machine has the limitation of using a round bit, which means that many traditional techniques of joinery cannot readily be made (but see below). There are also a number of fasteners and other sorts of hardware, many of which are made possible by modern technology and metallurgy and in their newness are somewhat obscure. This page is intended as a collection of such techniques and hardware, w/ links to actual implementations and usages.
- 1 Tolerances
- 2 Joinery
- 3 Hardware
- 4 Glues
- 5 Styles of Cutting
- 6 Post-processing Cuts
- 7 Other useful tools
- 8 Finishing
- 8.1 Engraving
- 8.2 Removing Fuzz
- 8.3 Metals
- 8.4 Wood Finishing
Any instance of one part fitting to another will require that one work out the appropriate tolerances for the fit.
There are many different techniques for making joints --- woodworking in particular has an old tradition of them, but many traditional joints are not readily made on a machine w/ only 3 axes using a rotating bit. The flexibility and control which CNC affords has however created the possibility of new classes of joints as noted below in Other Joints.
Interlocking part tolerance
MDF required about 0.015 inches (~0.381mm) clearance
- Double and blind rabbets are used in this wooden box.
It should be easier to cut full-blind joints by using a jig which holds the two pieces to be joined at 45 degree angles to the mill.
Normal dovetails can be cut using a jig which holds two pieces of wood vertically at the front of the machine using an endmill and dovetail bit.
See https://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Commercial_Software#Joints for commercial software for this.
Invented by Charles Knapp, sometimes referred to as a pin and scallop. It was the first machined drawer joint (produced from ~1870 to ~1900).
A great resource is the "50 Digital Wood Joints" project by Jochen Gros. It contains 50 joints that can be cut with a CNC router such as the Shapeoko, and includes pictures of the joints as well as digital files of each joint (in various formats including DXF, and IGS).
Note - Although the download link for the 50 Digital Wood Joints archive file is broken, it can also be downloaded directly from Jochen Gros' website:
These files are open source under the Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported (CC BY-NC-SA 3.0)
An overview and discussion of traditional joinery: https://furniturefab2013.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/joints.pdf
Commercial publication on snap-fit joints: http://www2.basf.us//PLASTICSWEB/displayanyfile?id=0901a5e1801499d5
Imgur: Joints from Regional Championship Denmark --- hand-cut joints w/ diagrams including: Mortis and tenon with a miter, Mortis and tenon with 2 miters, Trinity joint, Lap bridle corner joint, Sliding dovetail, Plus extension joint
- How to CNC a finger-jointed box?
- Keyhole cutting --- (w/ a keyhole bit) --- simple enough to do w/ hand-coded G-code.
- Joint Strength Contest And Repeat ability
Online source for 3D models for hardware: http://www.tracepartsonline.net/
One can also use hardware to join pieces together.
- http://www.bolts-library.org/en/index.html --- a free and open-source standard parts library for CAD applications.
How to Build your Everything Really Really Fast by teamtestbot --- Instructable on different fasteners and their appropriate uses.
Fasteners for stacked items
- Chicago screws --- https://www.chicagoscrews.com/
Various sorts of threaded inserts are available.
Some may also be paired with specialty tools for installing them:
Bolts are of course a fundamental fastener type, too broad to cover here in specifics, but there are a number of accessories available for them which are worth noting:
These can be surprisingly useful beyond their ostensible use to ease fastening by hand.
Installing bearings on a shaft: http://community.carbide3d.com/t/proper-way-to-insert-a-bearing-into-a-shaft/4991
Metal fasteners are an elastic system, which will only hold properly if stretched to a suitable degree by the application of the correct amount of torque.
https://engineerdog.com/2015/01/11/10-tricks-engineers-need-to-know-about-fasteners/?wref=tp https://www.quora.com/Engineering-1/What-is-something-useful-about-Engineering-you-can-teach-within-10-minutes-and-make-me-feel-astonished-and-fascinated 
A good reference site for selecting adhesives for different materials is: http://www.thistothat.com/
A useful technique for applying glue to box joints is shown in https://woodgears.ca/box_joint/more.html
2 part epoxies also work.
Styles of Cutting
One option for holes which are in a different plane than the endmill can cut is to put a notch at the edge for locating a bit for manual drilling.
- glass powder and casting resin
- Using ShapeOko 2 CNC Router for Inlay
- F-Engrave added explicit support for inlay in v1.50.
- http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6807 --- discussion includes countersinking
Corner chisels can be used to clean up pockets.
Another possibility is to mill a narrow groove in a material suited for bending and then form it into a shape. http://www.reddit.com/r/shapeoko/comments/32zxej/a_really_good_shapeoko_companion_tool/
Cuts in metal can be deburred: http://www.grainger.com/category/machine-deburring-tools/finishing-supplies/machining/ecatalog/N-c3b 
Other useful tools
- Different coloured cut areas
- One way to do this is to paint one colour, mask it off (using a suitable material), then paint a succeeding colour and repeat, planing or sanding off the excess paint Wax helps
- Another option is to cover the entire piece in adhesive vinyl, do the cutting, paint and then peel off the vinyl.
- Or use epoxy: http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=4862&p=36015
Polycarbonate V-engraving: put acrylic paint in the engraving (it gets all over the whole surface, but you have to force it down into the engraving), let dry, then use rubbing alcohol on a cloth to remove paint from the surface. This leaves a clean in-fill if you wipe carefully. then spray clear-coat.
For marking engravings in metal, the traditional thing is a lacquer marker: Lacquer-Stik Paintstick --- e.g., https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3IOFS8
Patina solution --- http://www.sculptnouveau.com/Details.cfm?ProdID=78&category=6 
An alternative to engraving would be to use a drag knife to cut a resist mask and then chemically etch the material.
It's basically going from one grit to the next progressively. Never jump double the grit size, keep everything clean.
The trick is after the 4k wet paper is used, to switch to Bon Ami. It's a common household cleaner that's over 6k grit. Beyond that, theirs talc at over 8k. You mix the powder with filtered water to make a thin slurry.
After that, you use a heavy paste wax (I like Johnson and Johnson) to seal the surface, before it oxidizes. At this point it'll be a mirror surface. If done right, it'll lack the wavyness of a buffed surface.
Lye can be used to strip the anodizing off of aluminum.
Types of finishes
Drying (true) oils
walnut oil, Boiled linseed oil, and Tung oil
Mostly natural oils that dry and harden in the wood.
Tung oil Finish, Danish oil, Antique oil, Odies oil, tried and true oil
Oils mixed with varnish and solvents
Film building finishes
hellac, lacquer, and polyurethane
One of the oldest finishes.
Burnishes well with kraft paper.