Double Makerslide X-Axis

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This upgrade, in a slightly simplified form, is now standard on the ShapeOko 2

There are still some considerations, alternatives and possibilities however:

Thus far a number of techniques have been used for fastening the rails together. This is made somewhat more difficult by the SO2 having a slight spacing betwixt the two rails. One way to join them is to use Thingiverse: MakerSlide or 20mm extrusion parallel joiners. Or for a Shapeoko 2: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:503437

The consensus on an optimal technique would be to drill holes and use nuts to fasten the two pieces together. Documented at: http://wiki.amberspyglass.co.uk/index.php?title=EShapeoko_1.2_Assembly:_X_rail TWForeman documented a slight variation of this fastening technique here: http://timf.anansi-web.com/wp/shapeoko-rebuild/ (file some angles onto standard M5 nuts so it slides into the slot of the Makerslide, one 13mm and one 40mm spacer seemed to be the correct dimension).[1]

Bart Dring has since worked up a wide Makerslide profile which directly addresses this.[2]

Even something as simple as putting washers at top and bottom and connecting them w/ bolts will help reduce twist.

Welding should be limited in length to reduce distortion: http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=5053&p=62601

See also: http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=4616&p=41638#p41638

Other options/improvements:

Upgrade Name: Double Makerslide X-Axis

Overview

Created by: User:Improbable Construct

Description: An upgrade to help stiffen the X-axis

Status: Fully functional

Benefits:

  1. Less flex in the Z direction
  2. Less flex of the Z-axis in the Y direction
  3. Less tortional load on the V-wheels

Materials:

  1. 1x Length of Makerslide equal to your current X-axis
  2. 2x Eccentric spacers
  3. 4x V-wheels
  4. 4x M5x20mm bolts *1
  5. 4x M5x70mm bolts
  6. 4x M5x10mm bolts
  7. 4x M5 nuts
  8. 12x M5 flat washers
  9. 2x 29mm of spacers for top (combination of nylon spacers and washers)
  10. 2x 53mm of spacers for bottom (combination of nylon spacers and washers)

Optional parts:

  1. 2x Edwards upgrade motor plates
  2. 4x Edwards upgrade end plates

Some stock parts will be reused in addition to parts listed above

*1 Measure the length you need before you buy, I (sneakxxattack) needed M5x30mm

Cost: Varies


Dimensions

Here are some dimensions that should help[3]:

  • MakerSlide has exactly 20 mm between the center plane of the Vs and the back of the rail; in other words, two pieces of MakerSlide back to back have exactly 40 mm between the tips of the Vs.
  • The front surface of MakerSlide is in the same plane as the tips of the Vs.
  • A standard V-wheel assembly is exactly 11 mm thick. That's 5 mm for each bearing, and 1 mm for the precision washer between them.
  • M5 washers come in two thicknesses: Form A is nominally 1 mm, Form B is 0.8 mm. Actual measurements for stainless steel washers are closer to 0.95 mm and 0.75 mm, respectively.
  • If you want to put two V-wheels on one bolt and have them run on back-to-back MakerSlide, you need exactly 29 mm of space between them.
  • One 1" spacer (25.4 mm) plus three Form A washers and one Form B add up to exactly 29 mm.
  • With a single washer between the V-wheel and the plate, the plate rides half a V-wheel plus a washer, that's 6.45 mm, from the plane of the MakerSlide Vs.
  • With back-to-back MakerSlide, the distance between the inside surfaces of the two plates making up the carriage is 6.45 mm + 40 mm + 6.45 mm = 52.9 mm.
  • You can replace the washers between one set of V-wheels (say, the front ones) and the plate with Form B washers. The distance between the carriage plates reduces to 52.7 mm, which can be done as two 1" spacers and two Form A washers.
  • It's a neat coincidence that the numbers work out exactly, not just within 0.1 mm or so.

Details

Discussion in the forum

CAD Data

Forum post --- shapeoko_upgrade_parts_v3.zip

Modifying original plates

If one has the original end plates, it will be necessary to drill new holes. There has been discussion of doing so in the forums:

Measure and mark carefully w/ a square, then clamp the two pieces together, making sure things are offset by the width of a piece of Makerslide to confirm, then mark w/ a spring loaded punch.

Standard operating procedure when drilling metal:

  1. use a punch to dimple the metal at the center of the hole
  2. use a guide block clamped in place to stay square / in position (if you don't have one, use the drill to make one first)
  3. drill a small hole first --- if it's centered, go on to the actual size, if not, figure out the largest drill bit which won't go past the desired hole, drill carefully using a guide block
  4. enlarge the hole w/ a file if necessary, clean up as needed

Successful Implementations

Alternatives

Twisted X Axis Makerslide 180 degrees

Dual X MakerSlide with room in between?

Or one could add OpenRail and metal v-wheels as shown in X and Z mods

Bar across the back...

http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=3329&p=25002#p25002 --- bolt, screw, epoxy or use the Makerslide joining clips

Sister in length(s) of steel (or aluminum) along the top or bottom[4] or in-between: steel[5], aluminum[6]

1.5" x 3/16" steel bar is suited for placing in-between the two extrusions.

Furthering this idea, Xaracen extended the V-wheel bolts for his Z-axis through his gantry on his SO1 by drilling matching holes, using longer bolts and appropriate spacers. http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=3734&p=37129#p37126

Additional mini-carriages

Yet another option is to add additional sets of wheels mounted to a secondary carriage as done on Marty's Shapeoko2 Deluxe.

Discussion in the Forums

Videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u46Dsay8h0s