I am new to 3d printing so this is not necessarily the best stuff.
Printrboard Electronics Rev C - http://www.makerfarm.com/catalog/i12.html
- Compact, very easy to use but has only support for 1 extruder. I will probably buy some other electronics like ramps in the future because of this.
There is a link to software and guide for using the software there. (marlin firmware)
Heatbed PCB Mk2 with thermistor and leds - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 184wt_1396
You also need 3mm glass sheet ontop... i got one from a friend.
Hotend: J-Head Mk IV-B - http://www.hotends.com/
- Orifice: 0.50 mm (default)
- Filament Size: 3mm
Also get: Heater Resistor (5.6 ohm) and thermistor.
There is a new hotend now, J-Head Mk V-B that i have ordered.
And this time i ordered with Orifice 0.35 mm. 0.5 seems to be a bit clumsy with fine details like tooth's on a pulley.
But i guess 0.5 is better when printing large objects. And also they are not exactly 0.35 or 0.5 apparently according to the manufacturers blog.
They are a bit smaller so you have to set that in a config file nozzle orifice 0.5 mm is aprox 0.475 mm - http://jheadnozzle.blogspot.se/
Greg's wade reloaded, i got the unassembled + bolt/screw set from http://www.2printbeta.de
and it works great.
Stepper motors, you need 4. I got 0.9 deg (400 steps/rotation) you already got 3 for shapeoko but you should get stepper with extra torque for extruder. http://www.ebay.com/itm/370611942952?ss ... 584wt_1171
You also need lots of good wires (heatbed dual 10A wire + thermistor, hotend thermistor + heater) and some way to connect them to the board. I just soldered them to the board (very ugly).
You should get kapton tape - ebay (heat resistant and used to hold stuff in place)
Also, you can't just solder the wires to the hotend heater. The tin just melt
so get clamps to connect them.