What else should I have on hand?

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What else should I have on hand?

Postby MeanderBolt » Tue Dec 10, 2013 1:23 am

I bought the full Shapeoko 2 kit. Will, or someone, is there anything else I might want to have on hand when it gets here that might not be obvious that would help in the the build or immediate time after the build. I bought a several mills that Edward had recommended in a post somewhere. Is this the time to be buying extra 5mm screws, or insertion nuts...
Last edited by WillAdams on Thu Jan 30, 2014 5:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Stickied
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Re: What else should I have on hand?

Postby WillAdams » Tue Dec 10, 2013 2:10 am

You shouldn't need anything beyond what's in the box. (If you have purchased a compleat ShapeOko 2 kit — for a ShapeOko 3, see: viewtopic.php?f=32&t=7126&p=56092#p56092 )

If you're not able to dedicate a solid block of time to the assembly, I'd suggest getting an empty plastic organizer to store small parts in. A multimeter to test continuity of the wiring is a good idea and really cheap at Harbor Freight which usually has a decent assortment of inexpensive plastic organizer trays. Pick up some hearing protection as well (I think the Inventables kit only has safety glasses --- in retrospect should've suggested foam hearing protectors)

You'll probably be happier if you buy a dozen or so M5 and M3 washers, esp. if you're planning on doing any upgrades --- buy them at a True Value or Ace Hardware store, not Lowes or Home Depot.

I would strongly recommend a good quality set of additional tools:

- wire cutter
- wire stripper (make sure it's suitable for stripping 18--20 gauge wire)
- needle nose pliers
- calipers are useful for measuring parts and evaluating run-out (a dial indicator is nice for machine setup, but only if one needs that level of precision)
- squares in various sizes --- useful for machine setup and verifying one's end mill is plumb and square
- pinch sticks --- cheap / easy way to verify the machine is square

The Inventables kit also ships w/ only one flat blade screwdriver --- the gShield requires two different sizes (I'm really fussy about screwdrivers though, and have been known to stop a project cold so that I could custom-grind a screwdriver to fit a screw YMMV) --- not sure which size they ship, my similar screwdriver to the Inventables branded one only fit the power terminal and I needed to use a smaller jeweler's screwdriver for the stepper motor connectors --- I believe my measurements for both size screwdrivers are still in the docs.

You'll also want a #2 Phillips or larger flat bladed screwdriver for the terminal blocks (I've been resisting the urge to purchase the nifty driver for such combination screws from Lee Valley).

The pulley set screws are supposed to be 1.5mm, but I found a 1/16" Allen wrench to be a better, tighter fit which allowed me to apply a bit more torque w/o fear of rounding off the screws or the wrench.

Depending on how you're planning on running the wires you might want a 12-connector terminal block or maybe additional 4-conductor security wire. Might want/need a 24-volt fan to cool the gShield.

I really don't think the 12mm screws used for the Carriage / End plates at the ends of the MakerSlide are long enough --- especially if one isn't experienced at tapping. Unfortunately, the button head cap screws don't seem to be commonly stocked, but you could use socket head cap screws instead which are more easily sourced --- just make sure to match the screws length to the length of the threads which one's tap can cut and when tapping, be sure to go full-depth.

There're supposed to be bunch of zip ties, so should be good on that count, and it looks like there's plenty of stuff for tidying up the wiring, but of course, if one can source drag chain, who can resist that? (I made do w/ gigantic zip ties though --- Lowes has them in black --- try there).

See if you can find a local source for inexpensive HDPE cutting boards (if you're inclined to make things out of such) --- my best find was at a local restaurant specialty supply store --- and of course other materials which you would want to mill (if you have a Michael's or A.C. Moore craft store nearby get some 40% off coupons and buy whatever wood they have in stock when you have the chance). Always make a test cut on a scrap piece first, so buy more than you think you need.

Above all, bring your imagination, vision and project ideas --- patience too. It's helpful to read through old threads here --- we've done this before, the big difference is the ShapeOko 2 embodies a couple of years of community experience and improvements, so hopefully there will be fewer issues and more immediate successes.
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Re: What else should I have on hand?

Postby Improbable Construct » Tue Dec 10, 2013 4:05 am

I would also recommend having a digital caliper.
You may not need it for assembly but you will need one.
You can spend hundreds of dollars on one but many are very affordable.
I have had a coupe of them, but this is the one I like best:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000YFT0A ... 1&pi=SX200
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Re: What else should I have on hand?

Postby WillAdams » Tue Dec 10, 2013 4:14 am

Good call (though I have an analog Mitutoyo which my Father picked up when he was stationed in Japan as well as a Brown and Sharpe micrometer which I'm not sure where he got that...) --- see my cigar box ShapeOko-oriented tool kit here: viewtopic.php?f=30&t=1797 (more detail here: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1756 )

A dial indicator is arguably even more useful --- see twforeman's posts and blog for examples of using it.

A good quality square or set of machinist's squares --- a larger one for checking that the machine is square, a smaller one for checking that the spindle and end mill are plumb.

A set of pinch sticks for measuring the machine on a diagonal to see if it's square.
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Re: What else should I have on hand?

Postby Halfdead » Tue Dec 10, 2013 11:49 am

Improbable Construct wrote:I would also recommend having a digital caliper.
You may not need it for assembly but you will need one.
You can spend hundreds of dollars on one but many are very affordable.
I have had a coupe of them, but this is the one I like best:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000YFT0A ... 1&pi=SX200



This is also the same Caliper I have, I really like it too.


I would recommend some post assembly T nuts if you can afford them, nothing more frustrating than forgetting a T nut and having to disassemble a bunch of stuff.
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Re: What else should I have on hand?

Postby MeanderBolt » Tue Dec 10, 2013 12:35 pm

Cool. I have about 99% of the first list. I have a couple Harbor Freight calipers. I have been lusting over a Mitutoyo caliper for a while but can't get myself to pull the trigger on it. I have an Ace down the street, so I'll pick up some m5s (various lengths?).
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Re: What else should I have on hand?

Postby WillAdams » Tue Dec 10, 2013 1:16 pm

If you want to get some M5s, my suggestion would be to compare them to your tap and get some which are about half the length of the tap --- that way if you strip out a hole, you can fix it by getting a bolt about twice as long.

I wouldn't worry about it though for the first time assembling the machine if you're planning on upgrading --- or even if not --- the bolts holding the MakerSlide are all accessible and you can change them out one at a time as desired.

William
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Re: What else should I have on hand?

Postby cvoinescu » Tue Dec 10, 2013 1:43 pm

I broke two taps over the course of tapping about 300 holes in MakerSlide, but never stripped a hole. I'm not sure how you'd do that.

The taps I broke within minutes of each other, at the end of a long session of tapping, when my arm was too tired to hold the drill steady. Yes, I use a battery-powered drill-driver, held horizontally, to tap the holes. No, don't do that -- until you get the hang of it, I strongly recommend you tap MakerSlide by hand, with a proper tap handle. If you do use a drill, always clamp the rail firmly to the bench, or hold it in a vice (mind the Vs!). Don't hold it down by hand. Don't use a regular hand tap in a drill. I use a machine tap with wide spiral flutes specially designed for aluminum alloy. It works perfectly well for hand tapping too. Don't forget the tapping oil. For tapping a few holes, you can get away with baby oil or mineral oil from the pharmacy, or even WD-40, but if you do this a lot, you want proper tapping/cutting oil.
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Re: What else should I have on hand?

Postby twforeman » Tue Dec 10, 2013 1:56 pm

Buy a can of Tap Magic tapping fluid. It's not expensive, and you won't regret it.
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Re: What else should I have on hand?

Postby WillAdams » Tue Dec 10, 2013 2:30 pm

cvoinescu wrote:I broke two taps over the course of tapping about 300 holes in MakerSlide, but never stripped a hole. I'm not sure how you'd do that.


My concerns about stripping a hole of its thread are:

- people who're in-experienced at tapping not keeping the tap straight and cross-threading it
- over-tightening the steel bolt in the aluminum hole
- not noticing that a steel bolt has badly cut threads and damaging the aluminum threads
- wearing out the threads from repeated assembly / disassembly

The used machine which I bought had a couple of threads which were stripped out to the point that a 12mm bolt wouldn't hold, so had to be re-tapped.
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