The "standard" configuration of ShapeOko consists of
|Arduino microcontroller||Arduino stepper shield||3 Stepper drivers||Power supply|
We'll cover each in detail below, along with some possible alternatives.
From the Wikipedia Article []: Arduino is an open-source single-board microcontroller, descendant of the open-source Wiring platform designed to make the process of using electronics in multidisciplinary projects more accessible. The hardware consists of a simple open hardware design for the Arduino board with an Atmel AVR processor and on-board I/O support. The software consists of a standard programming language compiler and the boot loader that runs on the board.
Where does Arduino fit into our project? We use the Arduino as the CNC controller by flashing grbl. Arduino is our link between software and hardware, it's the bridge between the intangible (gcode) and tangible (machine hardware). grbl receives raw text input via serial transfer generally in the form of gcode, and interprets that gcode into the correct step and directional pulses to send to the [stepper motor driver].
Arduino Stepper Shield
- Vendor: buildlog.net
- Link: http://www.buildlog.net/blog/2011/08/stepper-driver-arduino-shield/
- Price: $35 Assembled
- Price: $25 Kit
- Files located on buildlog forum: Buildlog
A (4) axis stepper driver Arduino shield that is perfect for use with grbl (garble) and other Arduino applications. The steppers drivers can be Pololu A4983, Pololu A4988 or open source StepStick drivers. These drivers can run steppers motors at up to 30V and 2 amp per coil. The resolution is jumper selectable per driver between full step,2x, 4x, 8x and 16x microstepping. There is now a relay driver board that is pin compatible with the stepper drivers that could be used to control spindle motors and coolant devices.
The plug in drivers are a great low cost solution for low power CNC devices. The drivers can easily be moved to other projects or replaced if they are damaged.
- Screw terminal blocks for all stepper motor connections
- Screw terminal block for the motor power supply.
- Arduino reset button for easy access to reset the Arduino.
- Jumpers for resolution selection.
- Motor enable wired to an Arduino pin. Default is set to enable motors
Pololu A4988 Stepper Drivers
- Vendor: Pololu.com
- Link: http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1182
- Price: $12.95
The A4988 stepper motor driver carrier is a breakout board for Allegro’s easy-to-use A4988 microstepping bipolar stepper motor driver and is a drop-in replacement for the A4983 stepper motor driver carrier. The driver features adjustable current limiting, overcurrent protection, and five different microstep resolutions. It operates from 8 – 35 V and can deliver up to 2 A per coil.
The potentiometers (POTS) on the drivers must be adjusted to control the current passing through the drivers. We want to limit the driver to 1.5 amps, so we adjust the POT until we measure 0.6 volts at the marked point.
TIP: You'll need a really small screw driver to get the pot to turn.
The ground pin to measure is not circled in the above drawing. It is the pin in the corner closest to the potentiometer screw. Verify this by looking on the bottom at the driver, the silkscreen will say gnd. TOUCHING ANY OF THE PINS SIMULTANEOUSLY (e.g. if the ground from your meter contact two of the closely spaced pins) COULD IMMEDIATELY FRY THE DRIVER. One method to deal with this is to tack a jumper wire to the ground pin with a bit of solder before any power is applied. You can then wrap the other end of the wire around your voltmeters ground lead and place it to the side and free a hand to either turn the pot or contact the marked point.
See the buildlog.net driver shield user guide for more information.
Pololu offered the following advice on setting the current level:
We usually recommend that you do not use the VREF to set the current limit for the driver as this method is harder to get right compared to adjusting the limiting while measuring the actual coil current with a multimeter or similar tool. When setting the current limiting by measuring the actual coil current, you should have your motor hooked up and powered on. If you have to use VREF to set the current, you do not have to have the motor hooked up, or the output enabled.
Assembling the electronics
Assemble the stepper driver shield If you purchased the Stepper Driver Shield as a kit, you'll need to solder the parts yourself.
Tip A great way to get the pins aligned properly is to actually plug the un-soldered header pins into the Arduino, and then set the driver shield on top. The pins will be aligned and allow you to easily solder them in place.
The stepper shield allows you to configure the drivers to use microstepping by adding jumpers to the pins along the center of the shield. We want to use microstepping on the x-axis and y-axis, but not the z-axis. Connect all three pairs of jumpers for X and Y to indicate 16 microsteps. Leave the pins "un-jumpered" for Z and A.
Solder headers to the drivers You'll need to solder the headers to the drivers, too.
Tip You can use the same trick to solder the headers to the drivers and you did to solder the headers to the driver shield. Plug the headers into the driver shield and set the driver on top. The pins will be aligned and allow you to easily solder them in place.
Keeping things separated The shield sits extremely close to the Arduino. If it looks like components on the shield are going to touch the Arduino, you'll need to do something to keep them separated. Either insert some insulating material between them, or insert a set of headers between the Arduino and shield.
Another option to help seperate the stepper shield from the arduino is to buy the Googly Eye Shield from evilmadscience.com!
Any power supply that can produce 4.2A - 6A at 24-30v.
Note: We have successfully used 24v power supplies between 4A and 6A. Other power supplies may work. If you are unsure about anything related to powering the machine: STOP AND FIND A QUALIFIED PERSON TO ASSIST YOU!
I used an old power cord and connected the Load, Neutral, and Ground to the black, white, and green wires.
The COM connection on the power supply should be connected to the - on the driver shield. The +V connects to the + on the driver shield.
The ShapeOko requires three stepper motors, one for each axis.
Connect the stepper motors to the stepper shield as shown below.
To convert Lin Engineering 5718x-05E-03 from uni-polar to bi-polar stepper motors: my original notes from 3 years ago
- cut the connector off the end of the leads
- strip off about 1/2" of coating on all 8 wires
- connect the red/white wire to the solid blue wire (twist them together, then cover with electrical tape or shrink tubing)
- connect the black/white wire to the solid green wire (twist them together, then cover with electrical tape or shrink tubing)
Now you are left with four wires:
Coil 1 = Black | green/white Coil 2 = Red | blue/white
Make sure none of the 4 remaining wires are touching each other.
- Spin the motor shaft with your fingers. It should be pretty easy to turn
- Now, if you touch the coil wires together (i.e. Black -> Green/White) you will feel resistance when turning the motor
- Same goes if you touch the Red wire to the blue/white wire and attempt to turn the motor shaft